So here I was exiting the metro at Porte de La Chapelle. Sunny skies, locals on their cell phones and me gliding higher and higher on the escalator like Stairway to Heaven. For those who haven't been here before, you know it's a metro because of the big sign. See the M on the left. Not to be confused with the letter M, which the French use for Merde.
Porte de la Chapelle is only a few steps (famous last words used by
hotels to describe their proximity to the center of a city when in fact they are miles away!) from Saint Denis on the
outskirts of Paris. St Denis, which as you all know, has a Basilica
where most of the kings of France were laid to rest. Well actually they are turning in their graves. How do I know? you ask in that ever so reticent voice so as not to offend the writer. I did a survey! No - really Larry? Ok then, Look up! Is it a bird? Is it a plane? No - its a Sign of Things to Come. Foreign domination in France. Mon Dieu! You cry. Yes - its the sad truth that St Denis has new rulers. Welcome King Samsung.
St Denis has suffered numerous setbacks. It lost most of it's population during the Hundred Year War, lost it's name during the French Revolution, was run by Communist Mayors for 40 years at the beginning of the 20th century, and suffered from the economic depression of the 70s and 80s leaving its heavily industrialized base in disarray. So of course the market was left wide open for the Koreans and Japanese to walk right in and leave their mark for all to see all over the tallest washing-machine like apartment buildings in the area, which at least adds some color to the otherwise depressing local skyline.
A hop, skip and a jump later and you are at the door of St Denis itself. And I mean hop, skip, and a jump because there is no pedestrian walkway from the ring road to St Denis. Yes that's right. You have to dodge 6 lanes of traffic from 2 directions simultaneously, make it across an off ramp on a blind curve next to the Bowling Alley on the the corner. And, if that's not enough, when you get to the fork in the road you have to hop over the metal barrier, walk over a bridge, skip over the trash and jump out of the way of the cars who are trying to rear end you. Ok. I made it.
Onward to my destination. Ill tell you in a minute where that is. Be patient! So where was I? Oh yes. Is this the doorway to the Valley of the Kings? No - its the local cemetery for the surfs - like you and me.
Can it get any worst before it gets any better. Well today it doesn't, despite the fact the crime rate in St. Denis is double the national average. Do I see a glimmer of hope?
A little way down the road at number 80 is an office/warehouse complex, which once inside, leaves you with the feeling of "Phew - I'm safe at last". Inside the well manicured grass lawns and Hausmannian designed roads, once can find several film studios. It is also home of EICAR International Film School where the young students still show off their ever so innocent smiles and creativity is flourishing. Could this be St Denis's answer to economic recovery? Will we see the birth of the French version of Slumdog Millionaire.
This important question and more they you ever wanted to know about Paris will be discussed ad nauseum in part 2. So stay tuned Space Fans.
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